In terms of food, Belgium is known for three things: Belgian Chocolate, Belgian frites, and Belgian beer. In my trip to Brussels, I covered all three. Extensively.
I was hoping during my 3 day stay in the EU capital, I would find fries cooked in duck fat. A growing trend in the US, I knew that Belgium and France were the two countries to go to in order to find the original of this thigh-expander delicacy. However, after speaking to some locals, they all turned down duck fat fries in favor for one spot. A small food stand outside one of Brussels' many cathedrals. In my opinion, what locals say goes, so after spending a bit too much time at the Margrethe museum, our empty stomach followed our noses to Place de la Chapelle Kapellemarkt.
Beyond looking ordinary to the point of being dingy, we wondered if we had found the right place. But then I thought, 'they're serving fries, not foie gras', so we approached with our 1 euro ready. In Europe, it is common to eat your frites not with ketchup, but with aioli, or mayonnaise. I am not mayo's biggest fan, but wanting the true frites experience, I followed my friend's lead and ordered it on top of mine.
Watching the guy behind the stand move, I knew he was a frites pro. The fries had already been cooked once, probably at a lower temperature in order to cook the potato through, and now he took each individual order and fried them again at a higher heat, to make them crisp and fresh. Coming out of the hot oil, he immediately tossed them into a metal bowl and tossed them with salt and a touch of vinegar. After pouring the perfect fries onto a plate, he threw on another pinch of salt for good measure, and with some mayo on the side, they were ready for me to devour. The fries reminded me why people enjoy fried food so much. Perfectly crispy, slightly acidic from the vinegar and the lemon in the aioli, and oh so salty, I had no qualms or regrets stuffing one lovely frite after another into my mouth. While most would think that this experience would turn me into a fries snob, and it kind of has, I also realized that you do not need a fancy ingredient like duck fat to make fries perfect sticks of heaven. With proper technique, you can make the simplest food, like a potato, taste divine.
In Brussels, there is at least two chocolate stores on every street. If that's not enough, there is even a lovely little chocolate museum, where you can see chocolate clothing and watch a chocolatier at work.While each one looks absolutely delightful in its tall displays of colorful candies and chocolate morsels, keep in mind that these stores are mainly catering to tourists, so that Belgian quality you are looking for is not always guaranteed. If you want great chocolate in Brussels, get it directly from a chocolatier, or try out Pierre Marcolini.
Pierre Marcolini does have a few stores around the world, including one on Park Ave in New York, but its flagship store is located in the heart of Brussels. Walking in, I felt like I had suddenly entered a store on Rodeo Drive. White walls, minimalist black decor with the exception of a huge crystal chandelier, I felt like Gossip Girl, getting my inside look at the world of the chocolate elite. Stuffy but not snobby, the sales people were very helpful in helping us choose from the endless amount of pralines, truffles, molds, and chocolate bars. The prices were also extremely decent. I was expecting to pay a fortune, but I was surprised that Marcolini's cost no more than the average tourist trap I had seen around the Grand Place. After trying one piece, however, I know I would have payed that fortune to get the quality that perfectly melted on my tongue.
I have had my fair share of high quality chocolate. But there was something different about the pralines I tasted at Pierre Marcolini. Each flavor, whether it was safron, earl gray, or pink peppercorn, was the perfect amount. It was subtle, there, but not overpowering the flavor of the extremely high quality chocolate. When your cocoa is that good, you just want to enhance it with other flavors, not destroy it. Pierre Marcolini's work clearly understands and practices this, making his chocolate the best I have ever tasted.
Of course, you cannot go to Belgium without sampling some good Belgian beer. It would be like going to France and not enjoying a good Bordeaux or Cotes du Rhone. While there are many Belgian beer shops you can buy from, I suggest trying out a bar to get them on tap and experience the local scene. And by "a bar", I mean
one bar. Delirium.
Located down an alley off one of the most touristy streets I have ever been on, Delirium is famous for its selection of 2004 beers from 60 different countries, with about 50 or so of them on tap at a time. Ales, lagers, stouts, even chocolate and raspberry ales, it is a beer lover's paradise. While I thought that Delirium would be a huge tourist trap, filled with study abroad students like myself, I was surprised to find that the bar was packed with locals of all ages. From teenagers to grandparents, everyone was there to sit and relax at the large wood tables and enjoy a great beer (sometimes out of a 1 or 2 liter glass shaped like a boot!) with family or friends. I have never seen a better atmosphere in a bar before. Everyone was happy and friendly, suggesting beers to each other to try out, or letting perfect strangers taste their beer to see if they liked it. With 2004 options, it is nice to get the guidance!
The bartenders at Delirium are extremely knowledgeable about their beers. If you tried one, liked it, but want to try something new, they will know exactly what to pull out of the back room for you. A word to the wise: if you stick to the Belgian beers, as I did, watch the alcohol content. Belgian beers are known for their higher amount of alcohol, usually around 9-11%. It WILL eventually catch up to you! While we are not huge drinkers, my friends and I ended up at Delirium three times during our stay, once twice in one day! It was not just the beer that brought us there, it was the atmosphere of the place. We tried so many different types of beer and met so many interesting characters, it was the best time I have ever had at a bar.
Sure there are a lot of classy French bistros and Michelin starred restaurants in Brussels. But seriously, when you have chocolate, fries, and beer, who really needs the fancy food and the bill that comes with it?
Beer is a whole other story. The cheapest beer available (Carlsberg) at a restaurant was $15, and you only received the bottle, not a full pint. My friend and I thought that we hit the jackpot when we found an Irish pub that served a full pint of Guinness and Kilkenny for $16.